Ever wondered how long you can keep vegetable seeds before they lose their capability to germinate? Or what planting depth is ideal? Or is there a comprehensive spacing guide?
In this article, we gathered resources to help you get the most of your seeds. For delicious results every time, no matter if you’re gardening at home or farming to sell fresh produce!
How long can you keep vegetable seeds?
Most seeds come in airtight pouches or cans to ensure they have a longer shelf life. At Westar we carefully take out the air from the pouches and seal them with state-of-the-art machines. You can watch the process in this video of our packing process.
But once the pouch has been opened, and the seeds have been exposed to air and humidity, with time they begin to lose their ability to germinate. Above you can find a table you can refer to when in doubt about some of the most popular vegetables and herbs!
| Plant | Storage period |
| Fennel | 1 year |
| Parsley | 2-3 years |
| Tomatoes, Beans, Peas, Carrots, Onions, Celery, Beets | 3-4 years |
| Peppers, Spinach, Radishes, Lettuce | 4-5 years |
| Cabbage, Eggplants | 5-6 years |
| Pumpkins, Zucchini, Watermelons, Melons | 6-8 years |
It’s important to mention that seeds are most likely to germinate in the first year of their production. Refer to the packaging of the seeds to learn more about their production date.
To preserve seeds you don’t use upon opening, you can reseal the packaging as tightly as possible and keep it away from direct sunlight and humidity. Always mark the opening date on the packaging to make it easier to know if the seeds are good to use or you need to buy new ones!
What is the optimal depth for each seed?
Growing from seeds can be a tricky task, especially if you’re planting several vegetables at a time – you have to make sure you put the seeds at the optimal depth and ensure spacing is enough for the seedlings to grow healthy.
The common saying goes that seeds should be planted at a depth two times the width of the seed itself. If yours is about 1/16 of an inch wide, it should be planted about 1/8 inch deep. Large seeds (like beans) may need to be planted inch deep.
If you’re dealing with tiny seeds, just pop them on the surface and barely cover with soil.
No matter the depth, a rule to follow is to never compact the soil on top of the seed – it should have enough air to breathe. Having that said, some varieties shouldn’t be buried at all because they need sunlight to germinate, like dill and lettuce!
What is the optimal spacing between seeds?
Again, each plant requires a different approach. If the spacing is too tight, the seedlings may suffer from a disease and grow weak; if the spacing is too wide, you’re simply losing a precious asset.
Here is a guide you can follow for the most common vegetables – it refers to classical row planting (not square foot gardening).
| Plant | Spacing between plants | Spacing between rows |
| Artichokes | 18″ | 24″-36″ |
| Beans (pole) | 2″ – 4″ | 18″ – 24″ |
| Beets | 3″ – 4″ | 12″ – 18″ |
| Broccoli | 18″ – 24″ | 36″ – 40″ |
| Cabbage | 9″ – 12″ | 36″ – 44″ |
| Carrots | 1″ – 2″ | 12″ – 18″ |
| Cauliflower | 18″ – 24″ | 18″ – 24″ |
| Cucumbers (trellis) | 2″ – 3″ | 30″ |
| Eggplants | 18″ – 24″ | 30″ – 36″ |
| Fennel bulbs | 12″ – 24″ | 12″ – 24″ |
| Kale | 12″ – 18″ | 24″ |
| Leeks | 4″ – 6″ | 8″ – 16″ |
| Onions | 4″ – 6″ | 4″ – 6″ |
| Peas | 1″ – 2″ | 18″ – 24″ |
| Peppers | 14″ – 18″ | 18″ – 24″ |
| Potatoes | 8″ – 12″ | 30″ – 36″ |
| Pumpkins | 60″ – 72″ | 120″ – 180″ |
| Spinach (baby leaf) | .5″ – 1″ | 12″ – 18″ |
| Tomatoes | 24″ – 36″ | 48″ – 60″ |
| Turnips | 2″ – 4″ | 12″ – 18″ |
| Zucchini | 24″ – 36″ | 36″ – 48″ |
We hope that these nifty guides will help you plant your vegetable seeds better, ensuring best germination results. Don’t forget to share in the comments your own tips and experience!
Sources: www.thespruce.com and www.gardeningknowhow.com
