Healthy vegetable seedlings are a must if you want to achieve good results with your field crops. Growing seedlings on your own is not difficult, but it has a few specifics. If this is your first year trying to grow them on your own, or if you have experienced difficulties in the past – here are some tips!
Seedling best practices
To make the most of the seeds you have prepared, you must follow a few best practices. Please bear in mind that there are climate-specific best practices which we will not cover on this list.
> Find a good spot to grow your vegetable seedlings. Different varieties require different conditions so make sure to check labels for instructions on place and time when it’s best to sow the seeds.
> Use healthy seeds which haven’t been exposed to diseases. Always make sure to buy seeds which come from guaranteed disease-free fields and have the latest disease resistance packages.
Get to know the recommended distances between seeds. Spacing is of utmost importance since your seedlings can’t grow healthy when packed too close together. Different varieties need different spacing, so again – consult the label or seed producer.
Follow all recommendations for keeping the seedlings healthy and productive. Some varieties require special care and treatment, while others are pretty easy to grow. By regularly checking on your seedlings you will be able to notice diseases and pests at an early stage when they can easily be treated.
Protection from pests and diseases
There are some pests and diseases you should be aware of. There are also potential difficulties you might face if you’re not following best practices. The most important things to protect your seedlings from are the following:
Root rot
Root rot is easy to spot upon inspection. Carefully dig out a few seedlings with a spatula and wash the roots in a bowl of clean water. If the root system is not white but yellow-brown, this is a sign of root rot. The reason might be too much water in the soil or not enough space between seedlings.
What can you do?
Before you open the polyethylene tunnel, make sure you pat it with a stick to remove any condensed water that might have accumulated on the inner side. If the seed beds are dry, water with a solution of a fungicide like thiophanate-methyl (20 gr. per 10 sq. m.). Fertilize with a watering can to diminish the chances of diseases. Seedbeds should be regularly exposed to fresh air (which also helps prevent rot).
If you find infected seedbeds, treat them with a 2% solution of copper sulfate and be careful not to spread the disease. Entering the beds should be only by necessity because air and your boots can carry the disease. As a precaution, you can also water with a solution of thiophanate-methyl (2 gr. per 1 sq.m.). The first treatment should be when at least the first four leaves of the seedling have appeared, the next treatments to follow at 7-day intervals.
Seedling damping off
If the plant looks like it has been “pinched” a little above the ground, this may be a sign of damping off. It usually appears when the seedlings are too close to each other. To treat, introduce a solution of propamocarb hydrochloride with a watering can (15 mg. per 100 sq. m.).
If both root rot and damping off occur at the same time, you can use this regime. Water a dry seedbed with thiophanate-methyl (40 gr. per 10 sq. m.), then follow up with a solution of propamocarb hydrochloride (15 mg. per 10 sq. m.). Let the bed dry naturally. In this way, the first solution can reach the roots, while the second stays on the stems.
When the seedlings’ sixth leaves appear, it’s recommended to treat with a fungicide solution (insecticide). Before transplanting the seedlings in the field, you should also introduce a fungicide and pests treatment which acts for a prolonged period.
It may take you some time to learn the how-to as every garden is different. But soon you will find that growing your vegetables from seed is the best way to ensure you get sustainable quality!
Leave us a comment with your advice or questions regarding seeds & seedlings!
